November 2003

The Sultanate of Oman has long been an isolated land to foreign visitors. The tourist was not welcome despite strong links with Britain and a very Pro-Western outlook. Our troops trained there, but visas were only issued for expatriate workers with needed skills.

Arabian camel

It is only very recently that this has changed and a tourist industry developed to exploit the 1,000 miles of pristine coastline and historic forts. Tour companies specialising in nature, especially birdwatching have been quick to move in and bird photographers are following. Many photographers have always been aware of the Oman’s wonderful potential due to the prestigious Danish couple, Hanne and Jens Eriksen who have lived and worked in the capital Muscat for many years. Their brilliantly executed pictures have had many of us in awe and wonder.

Marsh harrier

The few British photographers to visit seem to have chosen November as the most promising time of year, as good numbers of raptors are migrating through. Between October and March temperatures range between 15°C and 25°C, but outside of these months it is likely to be too hot for comfort.   

My friend Dr John and I arrived in the middle of November 2003, after what should have been a direct 8 hour flight from Heathrow, but the plane was cancelled and we were diverted elsewhere, before catching a connecting flight. We got there, but not our luggage. That arrived 48 hours later. To cap that the car hire company would not accept our pre-paid vouchers and we had to pay again (resolved later). Finally the airport cash machines would not accept any of my 5 plastic cards and the banks were closed. However other cash machines in the city worked perfectly. Fortunately our first nights pre-booked accommodation had not been burnt to the ground!

Spoonbill

The first drive into Muscat was favourable. The modern, well tarmacked multi-laned duel carriageway made driving in an Arabic country seem surprisingly pleasant and relaxed. Green watered lawns and spectacular traffic islands made it difficult to believe we were in a country comprised largely of desert. Cities in the Oman go to great trouble to decorate their traffic islands. There may be a large boat in the middle  or a treasure chest or pile of large books. Even water falls, model animals or pots of tea. It makes giving directions easy, “take this road until the pot of tea island, then hang a left until the cockleshell island”. 

Hotels prices are slightly higher than other Middle Eastern countries, but we managed to find some bargains. In Muscat we stayed at the Qurum Beach House Hotel (Tel: 564070) with two very large, clean rooms and satellite TV for £15 a night each.  Restaurants are as numerous as alcohol is rare, but beers can be found in some hotels. Meals are very good value.

Hobby

Car hire is a debatable issue. The Oman is a country where 4-WD could be advantageous, but of course expensive. We only had 2-WD and occasionally missed out because of this, but whether it would have been worth the extra cost for the few pictures we lost I doubt. Philip Newman who arrived a few days before us had a 4-WD Isuzu Trooper. This cost £35 a day with  a daily limited mileage of 200kms free. Our car cost half as much and was unlimited mileage. On a two week trip I feel a 2-WD drive will suffice and I believe Phil only got to one place we could not, which was a known sandgrouse drinking pool. Petrol of course is very, very cheap.

Before the trip tourist visas were required from the Oman embassy in London (Tel:020 7225 0001) and as on all my journeys I took a Lonely Planet travel guide with me. They have a title called “Oman & the United Arab Emirates and it is, as always, invaluable. For a bird site guide there is only one, the “Birdwatching guide to Oman” by Hanne & Jens Eriksen and Panadda & Dave Sargeant, published by Al Roya”.

Osprey

The book mentions obtaining permits for the Sunub Waste Disposel Site just outside of Muscat and for Sun Farm at Sohar. We did this in advance through Siw Rantapaa-Buring of Vision International (siwoman@omantel.net.om). Siw is a tour organiser and could arrange the whole trip including accommodation and car hire, but we did most of it ourselves. The permits were not expensive and we collected them from Siw when we arrived in Muscat. We were never asked to produce the permit at the rubbish dump, but better safe than sorry.

The rubbish dump should be the first port of call. Maps of its location are in the Eriksen’s book, but as our copy was in the lost luggage we followed the rubbish trucks until we found it. Carcasses are dumped here every day and hundreds of eagles can fill the sky in November, hence Muscat is known as the “Capital of Eagles”.

Great spotted and steppe eagles are the most common and can easily be photographed from the car. Other species that may appear are imperial and tawny eagles as well as lappet-faced vultures, egyptian vultues and brown-necked ravens.

Southern grey shrike

Not too far from the tip is the Al Ansab Lagoons located at the back of the sewage works. Various birds present themselves for photography on the tracks around the waters edge.

Once our luggage arrived we set off further north to Sun Farm at Sohar. An easy 4 hour drive and not to be missed. There was plenty of accommodation available here, with no need to book in advance, but it was more expensive. We stayed at the Al Wadi Hotel (Tel: 840058) for about £25 a night each.

At the security gate entrance to Sun Farm we did need our permit, but once inside could drive around the huge estate at will. We got excellent pictures of marsh and montagu’s harrier, common kestrel, Indian roller, Indian house crows, many species of waders around the farm ponds and numerous larks and pipits. 3-4 days are needed to do the farm justice.

Although the Eriksen’s book does show other sites in the area, they proved to be good for birdwatching, but hopeless for photography. After Sun Farm we drove south through the desert empty quarter to Salalah on the coast. It is a long drive. Some 20 hours at best, but there is the option to fly and pick up another car hire there. We drove because I love deserts and we might get hoopoe lark on the way, which we did. At one of the rest stations, Qabit there is a sandgrouse drinking pool, where Philip was able to photograph from his 4-WD, but we were forced to turn back. The birds fly in to drink about an hour after first light, gulp down the water in 15 seconds and depart apparently.

Isaballine shrike

At Salalah we stayed at the very comfortable Salalah Beach Villas (Tel: 235999) again in large double rooms and kitchen for about £12 each with TV. Within 400 metres was the East Khawr (estuary), which was a photographers delight. The waters edge was perfect for car window photography and full of a huge variety of waders, gulls, flamingos, spoonbills and eagles. The other estuaries along the coast offered some photography, but none as good as the East Khawr. 

As always in hot countries early morning starts are essential and we were usually down at the waters edge before the sun was up, until I discovered the camels and how wonderful they looked silhouetted against both sunrises and sunsets. I have a soft spot for camels from my first career as a zoo keeper. They are so proud and arrogant.

Bird wise the highlight for me was hobby resting on a low branch, which allowed a close approach and several rolls of film. Philip Newman was staying in the same hotel at this point and we texted him on the mobile to tell him it was there, but fortunately it was gone before he arrived! The osprey on a branch was also rather special.

Steppe eagle

The Oman is a wonderful place for bird photographers looking for a new Lesvos, Florida or Falklands. With time visiting photographers will discover new locations there and try it at different times of year. February/March would be well worth exploring, but whatever time of year I would not be able to resist a few more backlit camel shots.