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November 1st to 8th 2005 Although we might all have our favourite birds there are some species that just everyone wants to photograph. Kingfishers, puffins and golden eagles come to mind. The latter is one of the more difficult species to do, especially away from the nest. For many years I have dreamt of baiting down golden eagles in Scotland, but it has always proved too daunting. Without a local contact baiting up in advance the task would be close to impossible. When Spatia Wildlife in Bulgaria offered the opportunity as one of their photo tours I could not resist. Run by Dobromir Domuschiev they offer various wildlife tours and Emil Enchev, a prominent Bulgarian wildlife photographer, specializes in the photography trips. They both met me at Sofia Airport and apologetically lead me to Dobromir's Lada car. Not pretty, but functional on the rough tracks we would drive he explained. It has good ground clearance and if it gets hit by a few rocks what difference will it make.
I never got to find out as within 30 minutes we had to abandon it by the side of the road with steam gushing from the bonnet. A Volkswagen Passet quickly replaced it and proved a better ride on the road and pretty good on the mountain tracks too. They had 3 hides in operation in two different valleys and we did a quick inspection. One stone built hide on the top of a ridge turned out to be the best bet. The bait was being taken and it appeared to be golden eagles that were ripping the flesh. The following morning I sat in for the first of six long days in the hide. To avoid disturbance the hide is entered under the cover of darkness in the morning and I stayed in all day until dark had fallen again, almost 12 hours later. That's a long day and it was not very warm. Dobromir hopes to wind proof the hide shortly and make it slightly larger. It was designed for two photographers, but for a long stay I found it a bit tight for just me. To stay in a hide for a long time you need a bit of comfort. The eagles did not come in every day, but when they did the adrenalin flowed freely. Seeing these magnificent birds in close up through my 600mm lenses was worth the wait. It is something few photographers have done away from the nest. The bait (roadside kills) was hidden beside a large rock, which the eagles land on before going down to feed. The male and female often land together, but unfortunately this did not happen for me.
While I was in the hide Dobromir kept watch from below and telephoned my mobile when the eagles were in the air above me. I did not have to answer, it just rang once to alert me. I only nodded off for about 10 minutes in total during the 6 days and busied myself with two books and a collection of Suduku puzzles. Meanwhile Emil was watching the other valley to see if the eagles were feeding there, but they never did. The hides in the other valley are closer to the bait and shorter lenses possible. Where I was required a 600mm and 1.4 extender on a full chipped camera, but that did mean there was less chance of the eagles reacting to the shutter noise.
Spatia Wildlife supply the accommodation in local hotels and all the food for the trip. All I had to do was sit patiently in the hide. They do other photo tours too and maybe I will get back for wallcreeper and the red breasted geese. On the last day heading back to Sofia we stopped at Dobromir's Grandmothers house for a meal and to photograph sombre tits in the garden. My thanks to Dobromir and Emil for their hard work. I am glad it all worked out.
Sombre tit
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